|
Go 
|
New 
|
Find 
|
Notify 
|
|
Reply 
|
|
Admin 
|
New PM! 
|
Cittadino
|
It's a matter of the plant's overall maturity. And the variety is a factor, too. Smaller, determinate varieties - more like bushes than the indeterminate types that will grow to 6' or more - can flower earlier than the indeterminates. Sometimes you'll see mature seedlings for sale with some flowers starting. You'd nip off those flowers before transplanting because transplanting is enough of a shock for the plant's system without it needing to worry about flowers. I've grown some seedlings from seed for a friend. He lives in the hills above Cortona where, till now, it has been too cold overnight to transplant. The plants are now very well developed in containers, a couple with flowers starting. I'll take them up to him this coming week, nip off the flowers, and put them in the ground. When you're transplanting, don't forget to nip off all the branches and leaves beneath the very top branches and leaves. Plant them deeply, with only the top leaves visible above ground. The bare stem that's buried will form root structure.
|
| |
| Posts: 2319 | Location (City & State): Castiglion Fiorentino, AR | Registered: 21 October 2004 |    |
|
Cittadino
|
It's hard to know what pot size you would ultimately need without knowing what type of plant you have. Determinate varieties can cope in smaller pots, say about 18" across. Indeterminate varieties need much larger pots, preferably 30-36". The simplest way of telling the difference is to note where the flowers are growing. With determinate varieties, the branch is usually pretty short, and doesn't grow any further (longer) after the flower appears. In other words, the flower will always mark the end of the branch. With indeterminates, the branch will continue to extend, with more flower clusters appearing along its length. Indeterminate varieties also need staking and tying up, unless you have the space to let them sprawl. Luckily, peppers are grown exactly the same way tomatoes are.  Toms - and peppers, for that matter - in pots need more water and fertiliser than toms in the ground. In a hot summer, unless they get shade from the worst of the heat, you could be watering twice a day. In fact, if shade is a possibility, it's a good idea to protect them for a couple of hours from the hottest part of the day. As long as they get at least six hours a day of sun. With that sort of watering, you would also need to fertilise more often, at least once every couple of weeks. If you can't find a commercial tomato fertiliser, use a rose fertiliser. They're basically the same formula.
|
| |
| Posts: 2319 | Location (City & State): Castiglion Fiorentino, AR | Registered: 21 October 2004 |    |
|
Cittadino
|
If you brush a leaf, do little white things fly into the air? Then, eventually, settle again? If so, that's white fly. In small numbers, they don't do a lot of harm. In large numbers, they do. You can use a soap spray, garlic spray, chilli spray, or any of those organic home-made sprays. If you want to save the trouble of preparing the spray yourself, you can buy a spray pesticide with pyrethrum in it. Pyrethrum is an organic compound derived from the chrysanthemum. I've forgotten the Italian word for pyrethrum but it's very similar to the English. Have a look at your local nursery or garden centre. All these sprays are contact sprays, meaning you have to spray the insects - and hit them - when you see them. The sprays don't have any residual value on the plant.
|
| |
| Posts: 2319 | Location (City & State): Castiglion Fiorentino, AR | Registered: 21 October 2004 |    |
|
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
By viewing, downloading, or otherwise using or accessing the Expat Talk Forums,
you agree to be bound by our Terms of Service
Copyright © 2004 - 2008 Cristina Fassio
info@expatsinitaly.com
Looking for something specific on this site or the forum?
If so remember, use the Google search box below.
|
|